WONDERIND AROUND YEREVAN: THE OPERA

The phrase, "Let's go to the Opera", is probably more common in Yerevan than in any other city in the world. However, this does not necessarily mean that locals have a particular affinity for operatic arts.

Certainly, no one objects to listening to Puccini, Leoncavallo or Donizetti, but that's generally not what Yerevantisis do when they "go to the Opera". In Yerevan, " the Opera" does not usually refer to the musical genre or even to the famous Opera House. It is something between a state of mind and a lifestyle. People have business appointments and romantic dates by the Opera. They come here to spend their time in one of the numerous cafés , walk their dogs, have skateboard competitions, ride bikes and just stroll around. But if you are meeting someone at the Opera, you should always specify the exact intersection where you'll be, or it can get confusing. The Opera House and the public garden that surrounds it seems to make up a small island flanked by their adjacent streets and avenues- Mashtots, Sayat Nova, Teryan and Tumanyan- where the energy and excitement never stop.

In 1932, the government of the Armenian SSR decided to build an opera house because the Yerevan Conservatory offered a specialization in opera. On January 20, 1933, the debut of Alexander Spendiarov's "Almast" Opera, based on the poem " The Capture of Tmuk Fortress" by Hovhannes Tumanyan was performed. But the theatre did not have its own building. Its construction, based on the architect, Alexander Tamanyan's design was completed in 1940.

The architect himself had dreamt that the building would be inaugurated with the opera by his close friend, Spendiarov. However, neither the composer nor the architect lived to see the day. Spendiarov passed away in 1928 and Tamanyan, in 1936, sadly never see the final product of his brainchild. Still, it is his design that gives the building its true value.

The National House project ( the building was first meant to be a centre for social events and celebrations) won the Grand Prix and Gold Medal at the World Expo in 1937. The theatre of the building was opened in 1939, while the construction of the music hall was not completed until 1937. The entrance to this part of the building is from Sayat Nova Avenue and French Square. To some, the Opera building resembles the Colosseum, but in fact, many of its ornaments and details are in the style of medieval Armenia architecture. Today, The Opera is, in a sense, the true centre of Yerevan. It seems to gather the city around itself, setting the tone and mood of the city and serving as a guideline and landmark.

There are two monuments in the square at the entrance of the theatre. One is of poet Hovhannes Tumanyan ( sculptor Ara Sargsyan) and the other is of composer Alexander Spendiarov ( sculptors Ghukas Chubaryan and Ara Sargsyan). At the end of the 1990s, a statue of composer Aram Khachatryan ( sculptor Yuri Petrosyan) was erected at the entrance of the Grand Music Hall. One of the most touching statues in Yerevan is also located here: a young white deer, sleeping peacefully hidden in the grass.

You can purchase tickets for the opera and concert hall at the box office on Sayat Nova Avenue. You can also simply go to Swan Lake, free of charge. That's right, Tchaikovsky's masterpiece and a small decorative pond near the Opera House have the same mane. Swan Lake is designed in the shape of Lake Sevan, a miniature of the beautiful lake in the centre of the bustling city. It even has a tiny island. In the summer, you may see ducks or swans swimming in it, while in the winter, it turns into a skating rink.

Both Tumanyan Street and Teryan Street will take you to Swan Lake. There is a statue of composer Arno Babadjanyan (sculptor David Bejanyan) at the corner of these streets. But a company of such bright men would be boring without the presence of an elegant woman. And what a woman she is! A graceful sculpture of white metal has found its place on a green lawn by the lake. She is "The Lyre" (sculptor Sargis Bagdasaryan) commonly known as the muse of Armenian composers.

There are cafés to suit every taste all around the Opera, each with its own speciality. In one of the cafés , they make wonderful coffee on the red-hot sand and serve pancakes with different fillings, while in another you can sample tasty pizza and khachapuri, and yet another may specialize in salads. The cafés around the Opera part of what makes it an irreplaceable part of the city. And it doesn't even matter what you eat or drink. Sitting at one of these cafés is an experience in itself, a must for any visitor to Yerevan.

When the nightclub Astral first appeared near the Opera House, the temple of classical music, there was a great deal of opposition. But over time, things have calmed down. The building does not have much of a visual impact. It belongs to the series of "undergrounds". And speaking of undergrounds, the parking lot under the Opera, with access from Yumanyan Street, can hold 500 cars. Parking is not allowed in the streets surrounding the Opera.

To get to the public garden that is home to the white marble monuments of artist Martiros Saryan (sculptor Levon Tokhmajyan), you just need to cross Mashtots Avenue from the concert hall. Surprisingly enough, for much of the late 20th century, although Yerevan was an artistic city with a vibrant bohemian scene, you could not spot a single street artist. Their emergence is connected to the first Vernissage, which was situated in this public garden. You'll see artists exhibiting their works here on weekends. They also like to earn a bit of extra money by drawing quick portraits of passersby. Over time, handicraft artisans also starting selling their works alongside the paintings. Then, there was a split between the artisans and the painters, so now the city has two Vernissages. The painters kept their place (with Saryan guarding it) and the other artisans moved to the new Vernissage.

Not long ago, the public garden became popular once again, this time due to a statue representing a cult Armenian movie called, "The Men", directed by Edmond Keosayan (sculptor David Minsayan). The choice of the place was not accidental. It is here that the protagonist of the film spent his days, hoping to see Karine, the girl of his dreams who lived in the opposite building. The statue depicts the four main male characters: Vazgen (Azat Sherents), Suren (Mher Mkrtchyan), Aram (Avetik Gevorkyan) and Sako (Armen Ayvazyan). Locals consider this to be a monument, there is a café called Kozirek (from the Russian for "visor") which opened in the late 1960s. It got its name because its form resembles a cap with a visor. Here you can order a cup of coffee and slowly read a newspaper or just take in life in the centre of Yerevan.