Visit Pork Vedi (Khor Virap); Located 32km south of Yerevan at the foot of Mt Ararat, this village is best known as the home of one of Armenia's major pilgrimage destinations, the monastery of Khor Virap (Deep Dungeon). Sadly, pollution means that the mountain's snowy peak can rarely be seen from the village and monastery.

Visit Khor Virap Monastery; The buildings here have been repeatedly rebuilt since the 6th century. Legend tells us that the pagan King Trdat III imprisoned St Gregory the Illuminator here for around 12 years. These days, pilgrims queue to climb down a metal ladder into the well where the saint was incarcerated. To join them, wear sturdy shoes and head to the small church in the compound's southwestern corner (the well is to the right of the altar). After his cruel treatment of the saint, the king was cursed by madness (or, in a more colourful version of the tale, cursed by sprouting the head of a boar) and was miraculously cured by St Gregory. Historians contend that Trdat may have switched allegiances to tap into the strength of Armenia's growing Christian community in the face of Roman aggression. In any case, the king converted to Christianity and St Gregory became the first Catholicos of the Armenian Apostolic Church. He set about building churches on top of pagan temples and teaching the faith. The main Surp Astvatsatsin Church dates from the 17th century. Look for the carving of the saint curing the possessed King Trdat on its eastern facade, facing visitors as they enter the compound. Just outside the monastery walls are some excavations on the site of Artashat, Trdat's capital, founded in the 2nd century BC. The monastery is on a hillock close to the Araks River, overlooking river pastures, stork nests and vineyards. It's reached via a 4.5km road off the main highway, which passes through Pokr Vedi (sometimes also called Khor Virap). 

Visit Areni; Few grape varieties can thrive in Armenia's climatic extremes, but the Areni grape is an exception to the rule. Most of the country's vineyards are on the Ararat Plain, but the valleys from the village of Areni up to Yeghegnadzor comprise a quality wine-growing region. When you drive into the village you'll see plenty of roadside stalls selling large bottles that look as if they're filled with cola. These are in fact filled with red wine, camouflaged so that Iranian truck drivers can smuggle the bottles over the border. Summer fruits (especially apricots) are also sold from the stalls.

Visit Surp Astvatsatsin Church; Looking down on the village from its elevated location across the Arpa River, this small church was built in the 14th century and features wonderful carvings both inside and out; the Virgin Mary on the western exterior wall is particularly fine. Some of the headstones in the graveyard feature wine-making scenes, reflection the industry's 6000-year-old history in this area. Be careful when exploring the graveyard- we disturbed a snake on our most recent visit.

Visit Hin Areni Wine Factory; Prominently located on the main highway, Hin Areni is a professional outfit that produces a quaffable red using Areni grapes and a dry white using voskehat ( golden seed) grapes; both varieties are grown in nearby vineyards. The factory can be visited on a short tour that is best taken in late September and early October during the grape harvest. The tasting includes four different wines and vintages; bottles can be purchased in the tasting room, also. The wines sold at the next-door Areni Winery Showroom aren't as impressive as those produced and sold here.

Visit Noravank; Founded by Bishop Hovhannes in 1105 and sensitively renovated in the 1990s, Noravank (New Monastery) is one of the most spectacular sites in Armenia and should be included on every visitor's itinerary. Around sunset, the reddish hues of the dramatic cliffs surrounding the monastery are accentuated by the setting sun, and the reddish-gold stone of its churches acquire a luminous sheen- it's a totally magnificent sight. The complex includes the 13th-century Surp Karapet Church, built next to the ruins of an earlier church also dedicated to St John the Baptist. Attached to this is a small 13th-century chapel dedicated to Surp Gregor; it's home to a carved lion-human tombstone dated to 1300. The main, much-photographed, structure is the 14th-century Surp Astvatsatsin Church (1339), built on top of the mausoleum of Burtel Orbelian, who is buried here with his family. Historians say the church is reminiscent of tower-like burial structures created in the early years of Christianity. There's a wonderful carving of Christ flanked by Peter and Paul above the door.