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WONDERING AROUND YEREVAN: SAYAT NOVA AVENUE

  • Writer: Kianoush Poyanfar
    Kianoush Poyanfar
  • Nov 3, 2018
  • 5 min read

SAYAT NOVA AVENUE

This avenue bears the name of the renowned 18th century ashugh (Armenian poet-bard) Harutyun Sayadyan, known more commonly by his pseudonym, Sayat Nova. The origin of the pseudonym is ambiguous, but many think it means, "king of psalms." Sayat Nova was a court bard in days of the Georgian king Irakly. He wrote songs in three languages Armenian, Georgian and Farsi. Legend has it that the poet was exiled because he was in love with the king's daughter. Little is known about Sayat Nova's life, and the only real source of information is his songs. His songs are still sung, and are considered treasures of Armenian musical culture.

Sayat Nova Avenue was built in the late 1950s, and it immediately became known as the "trendy avenue". This must be due to the fact that it was paved with checked concrete tiles and lined with rose bushes and fruit trees. It looks a little different now, but is still very attractive.

The avenue starts from a shadowy public garden where there is a monument of Sayat Nova made of white marble. Water flows from the marble, symbolizing the fact that the bard's life still goes on through his songs. It is no coincidence that the Komitas State Conservatory is situated just behind this public garden. Komitas, a composer and musicologist, collected and recorded Armenian music you pass by the Conservatory, you can hear stude the classrooms. If you walk slowly and listen carefull interesting classical music medley. A blend of a several music, a few uncertain plucks at a string instrument, and exercises combine to make for a unique harmony.

There is a statue of Komitas (sculptor Ara Harutyunyan) in front of Conservatory. Everything in this area, down to minor décor details, contains music references - from the mosaic on the floor in the form lyre, to the treble clefs on the garbage cans. Actually, Sayat Nova Avenue has always been a musical street. During Soviet times, the city's two main music stores were on this street.

Monument of Sayat Nova

If you walk towards the Circular Park from the Opera, along the way will see an Armenian ethnic restaurant called Mer Gyugh ("Our Village"). Anyone interested in the subtleties of local cuisine and culture shouldo here. Everything about this restaurant is in traditional Armenian style: wooden walls, floors and furniture, bright carpets, ornaments, waiters in national dress, live Armenian music and real Armenian hospitality. If you'd rather not venture into local tastes, try Grammy Café or Buddha Cafe both on the opposite side of the street. There is a large flower shop next to it one of the most famous in Yerevan- called Brabion. If you'd like to impress a date with a fancy bouquet, even in the middle of the night, this is the place to go. It's open 24/7.

While Yerevan boasts a wide array of impressive sculptures, there is one at the corner of Sayat Nova Avenue and Teryan Street that is simple,but beautiful. This is the statue of Arev Baghdasaryan, a famous actress who performed international songs and dances.

When you pass this intersection, the avenue temporarily changes from a musical area to a kid zone. On one side ofthe avenue there is a children's café called Tutti Frutti and across the street is the Puppet Theatre. The theatre building may catch your eye from a distance. It can easily be recognized by , thus preserving it. When s practicing in y, you'll hear ent an verses of piano some vocal the ,you AF ring. And perched atop the building is a musical fairy tale house featuring characters from popular tales who sometimes come out to dance. its playbills and the bell at its entrance, which children ages 3 to 100 love to ring. And perched atop the building is a musical fairy tale house featuring characters from popular tales who sometomes come out to dance.

The Puppet Theatre has more to it than meets the eye. Very often, adult plays and rock concerts take place there. So nobody is surprised when they see rockers in leather jackets exiting the theatre minutes after a crowd of children in party hats. The annual Golden Apricot Film Festival also makes use of this small, but multifunctional theatre to show documentary films. You can stop for a snack at Sayat, right next door, where they serve excellent shawarma and lahmajo. You can walk down Sayat Nova Avenue quite quickly since it's only 1.5 km long.

Painting of Sayat Nova by Minas Avetisyan

A bit further down, at the intersection with Abovyan Street, there is a small chapel. This is all that has remained from the 13th century St. Katoghike Church, which used to be part of a monastic complex. In the 17th century larch was built over the western façade of the tiny church, where the entrance was situated, connecting it to a new, larger cathedral. In 1934, it was destroyed and the Language Institute was built in its place. It was a true miracle that the chapel had escaped destruction. It remained in the yard of the Language Institute. In 2008, the Institute was torn down and the small chapel was freed from its tight stone surroundings.

After Abovyan Street, Sayat Nova Avenue again changes its colors, with a wide variety of cafés, clubs, pizzerias, cinemas and karaoke bars. This part he avenue is also lined with several boutiques and accessory stores. And, as a vital support to all of these delights, stand the offices of a few Armenian banks, complete with exchange offices.

If you pay attention, you will see a touching sculpture of a loving deer couple just a few meters away from Season cinema-bar. Like typical sweethearts, they will not want to make eye contact with you, so you may not notice them. A little further, you will be greeted by a real surprise: the avenue is decorated with bright red lanterns, golden dragons and Chinese characters. There almost seems to be a constant dialogue in Chinese between Lotus and Beijing, two Chinese restaurants across the street from each other.

The Sayat Nova Restaurant Complex stands at the corner of Khanjyan Street and Sayat Nova Avenue. Many years ago, there was an open-air café here with the same name, which featured a legendary painting of Sayat Nova by Minas Avetisyan. Believe it or not, the handsome depiction was considered very racy at the time. In the 1960s, teenage girls would come to the café just to admire the dreamy portrait. And although the old café is long gone, the "erotic" painting is exhibited and the entrance of the current Sayant Nova Complex. Check it out -you'll be surprised at how much notions of eroticism have changed in just a few decades.


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